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Your Guide To West Hollywood — And Why It Belongs At The Top Of Your Travel Wishlist
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Of course there was the glitz and glamour I'd been absorbing throughout my life, through film, television — and we can't forget the internet. But there was something else that felt like it spoke to the confines of my soul. If you've travelled overseas, I'm sure you know the feeling. And if you haven't felt it yet, you just haven't found the right place. If you're a dreamer of any kind, but more specifically the creative kind, the city can feel like a mothership. I found myself surrounded by curious minds with boundless ambition. Those who weren't afraid to lose themselves in mindless discussion and express their vision with so much passion, you couldn't help but meet them with just as much enthusiasm. Shocking, right? You'd think an advocate for the expansion of knowledge and experience would think to explore the heart of the place that had stolen theirs at such a young age. Actors, musicians, studio executives and other industry heavyweights would come through to eat, drink, party, stay in its hotels and make the area part of their lives, before heading home to Beverly Hills. Now tell me why you would want to stay, eat and play anywhere else. The Sunset Strip, which runs through the city, became famous for its music venues and nightlife, while the area also grew into an important centre for LGBTQ+ life and culture. So maybe that’s why West Hollywood can feel so energetically full despite being so small — there are just an absurd number of stories, people and lives packed into such a tiny place. When he starts rattling off stories about the people, clubs and scandals that shaped the area, it's clear that he isn’t just reciting something he read in a book. A lot of it comes from his own experiences, connections and very long history with the place. It's safe to say I'm a little (a lot) obsessed with him — and you will be too. You'll find yourself halfway up a hill, trying to keep up while Johnny launches into another story, and suddenly three hours have passed. He’s funny (Aussie-humour approved), animated and clearly knows approximately everyone, so there’s very little chance you’ll get bored. I won't give you spoilers (Johnny made me promise not to), but hear me when I say I intend to take this tour as many times as I can before he retires. People have gone back two and even three times because he changes things up depending on who’s around, what’s happening and which doors happen to be open that day. You might see a completely different side of the Strip each time — and, frankly, that feels pretty fitting for a place with this much lore. Or stop by the Formosa Cafe, which started life as a converted trolley car in 1939 and quickly became a favourite Hollywood hideaway. Frank Sinatra, Ava Gardner and John Wayne were regulars, and the place has stories about everyone from gangsters to movie stars attached to its booths. These days, you can still settle into the dimly lit, old-school space for Chinese-American food and cocktails, surrounded by red booths, vintage photographs and decades of history that have been built into the place. The LGBTQ+ venue has been part of the city’s nightlife since the '90s, but more recently, it became part of a whole new pop culture story when Chappell Roan revealed that a visit to The Abbey inspired Pink Pony Club. So yes, you can now stand outside a West Hollywood institution and think about how the same place that has been a fixture of queer nightlife for decades helped inspire one of the biggest pop songs of the past few years. Rock stars, actors and musicians have stayed there for decades, and its recording studio has been used to make Grammy-winning records. If you want the full story before you go — or during your stay, a new documentary If These Walls Could Rock dives into the hotel’s six-decade history, with everyone from Bruce Springsteen and Ringo Starr to Slash and Dave Grohl talking about the place. First up is 1 Kitchen, where chef Ginger Pierce takes a very California approach to cooking, with seasonal ingredients, plenty of vegetables and produce from the restaurant’s own organic garden. The space is filled with greenery and natural textures, giving it that effortlessly beautiful California feel. I had the chicken caesar wrap and housemade potato chips — not fries, chips — and I'm still dreaming about it. The menu is designed for sharing, which means you can order a bit of everything and actually try more of the dishes. As someone who loves to split several dishes with my fellow diners, I thoroughly approve. For a little old-Hollywood glamour, there’s The Tower Bar and Restaurant inside the Sunset Tower Hotel. You can stop by for lunch or come in for dinner, with dishes ranging from seafood and steaks to classic American favourites. The hotel itself has quite the history, too — it was once home to stars including John Wayne and Howard Hughes, and the restaurant became a regular meeting place for Hollywood’s industry crowd. It feels more like a tucked-away dinner spot than a big West Hollywood night out, which is exactly what makes it worth knowing about. If you want the view and the food, head to The Roof at The West Hollywood EDITION. The rooftop looks out across the city and is surrounded by greenery, with cocktails and lighter dishes to go alongside the views. Go around sunset and you’ll get to watch the sky change over the Hollywood Hills as the city lights start to come on. The restaurant also has an open-air setting, greenery and views towards the Hollywood Hills, so there’s plenty to look at while you work out what on earth you’re ordering (then proceed to order it all). Then there’s The Casa Madera, which combines Mexican and Mediterranean flavours in a seriously beautiful setting. The menu covers seafood, steaks and fresh, seasonal dishes, while the dining room brings in plenty of greenery, natural textures and warm lighting. It’s made for settling in for a long dinner, ordering a few cocktails and seeing where the night takes you. And while you're there, be sure to check out the art and photographs in the bathroom. Just trust me — you won't want to miss it. If all you want is a burger and a milkshake, Mels Drive-In has you covered. The Sunset Strip diner has been around since 1997, serving classic comfort food in a retro setting. It's also the perfect spot for a photo-op if you want real American diner vibes as your backdrop. I stayed at the 1 Hotel West Hollywood, which has greenery woven throughout the property — from its plant-filled spaces to the organic garden. It's also got a rooftop pool with views across the Hollywood Hills and 1 Kitchen downstairs, so you can basically roll out of bed and straight into breakfast. The hotel even offers a service to donate clothes at the end of your holiday, which is perfect for when you want to clear some luggage space for all your shopping. The Valorian Hotel is one of the newer options, with rooms and suites overlooking the Hollywood Hills, a rooftop pool and Casa Madera downstairs. It’s also right on Sunset Boulevard, so you’re close to plenty of restaurants and bars when you do decide to leave the hotel. Kimpton La Peer Hotel is tucked into the Design District, with a rooftop pool and courtyard, while galleries, boutiques, restaurants and bars are all within walking distance. So if you’d rather explore on foot than spend your trip in a car, this one makes a lot of sense. If you're feeling brave, look into a Maverick Helicopter ride — and you'll see just how much is packed into the surrounding area. You’ll get a bird’s-eye view all the way from the coast, to the top of the Hollywood Hills, the Sunset Strip and the wider city. I can tell you right now, there's nothing else like it. Spend an afternoon wandering between The RealReal, Salomon, Municipal, Aimé Leon Dore and Maxfield, with plenty of furniture and design shops mixed in. Even if you go in with absolutely no intention of buying anything, I wouldn't be surprised if you leave with a very convincing reason why you had to. Universal Studios Hollywood is there for the full theme-park experience, with rides, film sets and enough things to see that you’ll probably be exhausted by the end of it. SoFi Stadium is another one to add if there’s a game or concert on while you’re there — although even the stadium itself is impressive enough to warrant booking a tour. The collection includes costumes, props and other pieces from the world of film, with exhibitions looking at how movies are made and the people who make them. LACMA is another nearby option, with a huge collection spanning thousands of years and everything from ancient objects to contemporary art. Erewhon is probably the biggest example. If you’ve seen those $20 USD smoothies all over your FYP, this is where they come from. It’s a grocery store, but one with organic produce, prepared food, supplements and an enormous selection of wellness products. You can also try some of the smoothies that have become internet-famous, so yes, you can finally find out what all the fuss is about. It’s all about looking after your body from the inside out, which feels very on-brand for a place where wellness is basically part of the culture. DOGPOUND Gym is where you go if you’d rather sweat than sit in a sauna. Founded by celebrity trainer Kirk Myers, the West Hollywood gym has become a favourite among stars including Taylor Swift and Hugh Jackman, but the workouts are available to anyone who wants to give them a go. If you’d rather explore with someone who knows where they’re going, Bikes & Hikes runs guided hikes and bike tours around West Hollywood, with local guides who can fill you in on the stories, history and little bits of city lore you’d probably miss if you were exploring on your own. The EDITION Spa is the other end of the spectrum, with massages, facials and body treatments in a much quieter setting. There’s also a sauna and relaxation area, so you can actually switch off for a while instead of spending the entire trip rushing from one thing to the next. No matter what you're looking for, chances are you'll find it there.
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